
At last, we bring to you.. the long overdue recount of the Bordeaux region adventures from our November 6-9 excursion. Whilst brainstorming back in September/October about where to travel in November, we came up with the idea that since late Fall wasn't likely to provide for the best weather, a trip focusing on indoor activities might be best, and hence, we decided on wine tasting. Our love for Washington and Californian wines is quite strong, but we wanted to expand our horizons and gain a better understanding of wine from Europe, especially the famous French regions. We decided that making this trip sooner than later made sense, as French wine dominates UK wine shops, and we wanted to know more about the region early in our UK experience. As one of the most famous regions in France (and the world, for that matter), we decided on Bordeaux.
Our trip started out a little bumpy, with our flight to Paris delayed due to fog in London, which unfortunately meant a missed connection to Bordeaux. We'd packed our itinerary pretty tightly with winery visits, and it meant that our first one wouldn't work out. We were bummed, since we'd managed to secure a visit and tasting to the famous Chateau Margaux, however there wasn't much we could do about the late flight. Opting for a
TomTom (GPS) when renting a car (Renault Clio - smallest car I've ever driven) turned out to be a great move, as the directions we'd brought surely would have caused more than a few headaches.
Once on the ground, in said rental car, we were on our way up to the Saint-
Estephe area in the north Left Bank area of Bordeaux. (Bordeaux is split into two large sub-areas, the left and right banks of the
Garonne river). We started our trip on the left bank, tasting at the Chateau Cos
d'Estournel on Thursday afternoon, and stayed the night in the tiny town of
Pauillac, which is known in the wine world for its proximity to some of the most famous wineries on the left bank. The town itself was extremely sleepy, as November is most likely not "peak season" for southwest France, however we managed to find a really nice bed and breakfast, near the
Garonne waterfront for a reasonable rate.
Friday morning saw us up early for our 9:30am scheduled tour and tasting at the very famous Chateau Mouton Rothschild, by far my proudest scheduling victory of the trip. We had an inkling of the Chateau's fame before our trip and tour, however the visit taught us quite a bit more and our fascination with the winery continues to grow. For example, the fact that the winery's wine cellar has approximately 110,000 bottles of wine, some dating back to the mid-1800's, was astonishing. Also amazing is that included in the cellar's bottle count, is the winery's archival cellars, where they take cases of each vintage (with starting retail prices for each bottle around 2-300
USD) along with magnums, double-magnums and
Jeroboam's (5L bottles) and store them infinitely - only opening the bottles to re-cork them every 25 years for preservation purposes. Not to mention that the winery commissions a famous artist each year for the label, with previous vintages displaying works by Picasso, Chagall, Warhol and Dali.
We also tasted Friday at the Chateau
Pontet-
Canet, which is not nearly as famous as Mouton, however the vineyards are adjacent, and the wine is much more reasonably priced. Recently, the winery has received great acclaim from wine media, so we decided to visit. Our tour guide was extremely friendly, taking us through the vineyards and facilities, and we even met the owner!
For lunch Friday, we had made a reservation at the Chateau
Cordeillan-
Bages, which is a two Michelin-starred restaurant (fantastic presentation and service), and had by far the best meal of our trip to France. Initially we were a bit shell-shocked by the entree prices, however decided to do it anyway - and we were not at all disappointed. Prior to our main courses, the chef provided us with no less than three free tastings, or "amuse-
bouche's," all of which were exceptional. Our mains were unbelievably well presented and amazingly flavorful, and afterwards we were again treated to three free dessert tastings!! Good thing we'd said 'no' to the desserts we would have paid for - these were much better! Outstanding service, what an experience.
After lunch, we hustled over to the right bank region, to our Friday night lodging
in the Chateau Franc-Mayne, just outside the village of
Sainte-
Emilion. Staying in a chateau/winery in Bordeaux was one of our best decisions of the trip, as we were right in the midst of the vineyards, and received a free tour the next morning of the Grand
Cru Classe listed facilities and limestone quarry wine caverns. The village of St.
Emilion is known for being built nearly entirely out of limestone blocks, as it sits on immeasurable reserves of limestone rock, which was excavated in medieval times for construction of castles, cathedrals and wealthy villages. The Chateau Franc-Mayne, our
accommodation on Friday, and the Chateau's vineyards sat directly on 4-5 square kilometers of excavated limestone quarries, which was the perfect storage space for the latest vintage as it aged in French oak barrels. As part of our tour, we were able to explore the caverns, and they were unbelievable! Absolutely enormous!
The town of St.
Emilion quickly made it to my 'top 5' in Europe, after we visited Friday night and Saturday. The limestone style of building provides an unmistakeably medieval essence, which
permeates the entire village. Luckily we were able to tour the town's most notable attraction, an underground monolithic
Gothic cathedral, built by excavating limestone from one solid limestone deposit. The dimensions of the cathedral were uncanny (like most in Europe), and the thought of it being entirely underground was almost impossible to fathom.
Our final tasting of the trip, was at the Grand
Cru Classe listed winery Chateau
Laniote, near Saint-
Emilion. The smallest operation we visited, we were immediately greeted by the winemaker/owner who explained that the winery had only ever been in his family, passed down through seven generations. An absolute crack-up, he told jokes, did magic tricks for us, and generally had us in stitches for most of the tour/tasting. He was, by far, our favorite character of the trip.
From there, we travelled back to the central city of Bordeaux for our last night of the trip. Arriving on the late side, we only had enough time to check in to our hotel, and dash out to make our dinner reservation. We found the city to have a very busy nightlife though, and could definitely see ourselves going back to spend more time. The next morning before our flight, we managed to do a bit more exploring, and only confirmed that it is a city worth spending time in.
Overall, our trip was a huge success, in that we had a blast - but also learned a TON about Bordeaux wineries and Bordeaux-style
wine making in general. It feels great to be able to walk into wine shops in London now, and know whether the Bordeaux wines we're looking at are left/right bank, which parts of the region they're from, and understand the different classifications of wineries. If you have any questions, let us know - we'd be more than happy to confer our new knowledge upon you!
A very Happy Thanksgiving to all of you, we'll be celebrating in style, with two separate dinners among American friends over here =). Hope all is well with everyone, cheers!